Day Six – Which Way to the Beach?

Before I regal you with tales of secluded golden crescents of peace and beauty, there are some important commercial advisory duties I should attend to.

Baja Cactus: hostel/hotel, not actually air conditioned, beds decent, showers decent, breakfast decent, staff exceptional, patio and general ambience excellent, location… depends what you’re looking for. Definitely central. Definitely loud. Two bed private: 40USD/night

Cabo Escape Tours: professional, excellent equipment, high quality, loud, party focus. Pirate show: 60USD Snorkel tour: 45USD

Aguila bus lines: clean, reliable, fair, semi cama, comparable to Greyhound for North Americans.

Todos Santos Hostel: incredibly chill, easy social atmosphere, extremely nice facilities, great showers etc. off the main roads. Yurt: 50USD/night Dorm Bed: 19USD/night

Moving on! Las Palmas! Old Port! Punta Lobos!

Looks like I’ve drank too much wine to wax eloquent at the moment.

But I have so much to say!

Cats screaming their love, roosters gossiping about sunrise, different fishery habits, the chill music at this hostel, 25 000 steps!, walking in the pitch black to find wine while listening to the deafening roar of crickets, my mutinous debit card (note: I may not make it home, given my current fiscal predicament)… LBJ’s & BBJ’s galore, a sea lion and a soaring raptor.

I’ll probably never get around to putting flesh on those bones, but here are the photos anyway:

Shower tap?!

King cacti are HUGE.

Guide foals…What could go wrong?

Playa Las Palmas. Empty. Beautiful. Whales. Waves.

The following are all from Old Port:

Note: directions to Las Palmas/Old Port/Punta Lobos

From Todos Santos Hostel: turn RIGHT when walking out of the hostel and keep walking (approx. 45mins) and you’ll hit Punta Lobos. Just before you hit the beach there is a ruined building on the LEFT. If you walk through the building you’ll come to a sign directing you to a yoga platform and the Old Port “viewpoint” (it’s a beach if you want it to be!). Follow that road and you’ll make it to the Old Port. You can either go down to the beach or keep RIGHT and go to the point. If you go far enough you can often see sea lions basking. You can head down to the beach, sandy at low tide; or you can keep LEFT and follow the road over the mountain until you see a beautiful sandy beach bordered by lush green and palm trees. I don’t THINK that road actually makes it down there.. anyway, we scrambled down. Well up, actually. See below.

OR if you find a nice person with a car who is happy to drop you on the side of the highway: drive down the highway out of Todos Santos towards Los Cabos, after you pass Tres Santos Hotel pull off at the first dirt track you find on the RIGHT and follow that road (I recommend on foot… it’s a bitch of a road). There is one three way intersection, keep to the MIDDLE. Poof. You’re at Las Palmas and it’s prolly 10km to walk home following the coast and stopping at Old Port and Punta Lobos on the way.

The Punta Lobos Fishing Cooperative: each guy fishes 3-5hrs a day, 2-4 guys per boat, they fish with lines on a paddle reel, 3-5 hooks per reel, one reel per guy, when fishing red snapper they send the line down 150m, reel it up (full every time) every 5 minutes, the boats come back around 150kg, ten boats per day on average, a truck from La Paz comes and picks up their catch daily. I couldn’t get the clearest idea of who is buying their catch but I bet it’s a wholesaler. It’s red snapper season… whatever “season” means here. They also catch marlin and grouper and anything else the sports guys fish for… they just use heavier line and fewer hooks (YA THINK???) … the average marlin they pull up is 100kg. (They must be hella strong yo).

Can I just say that I am so deeply grateful for the Spanglish here.

… though I’M still sorely out of my depth: “Una foto, un beso” sounded somewhat different to my novice ears…

The following is a spec photo from home – what happened to the good old days of reassuring or amusing photos of my pets?


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